Tuesday, April 24, 2018

Juki 8700H-- A Learning Curve



About two months ago I excitedly recieved my new sewing machine, a Juki 8700H. Up until this point, I've only sewn on domestic machines. After much research, a lot of back and forth and conversations with sewing friends and the lovely people at Sewinggold.com I decided on this machine.  The reason that I ultimately got the Juki was multi factored: 1) Cost 2) Information available on this machine 3) The ability to sew heavy materials 4) The reviews from other bag makers.

I purchased from Sewinggold.com and I am so pleased with their customer service and knowldge through the process. I spoke with them on the phone prior to purchasing and they graciously answered my questions no matter how silly, and helped me settle on one machine. I purhcased the machine on a Saturday afternoon and it was delivered on Tuesday morning.

I do admit that the boxes that were delivered were a bit daunting.


It came in 4 boxes of which none were light! The total combined shipment was about 160 pounds. Opening the boxes and really not understanding how things are supposed to go and what was what was a bit intimidating. The machine came complete with a set up DVD that went through step by step of how to assemble and set up the machine. Honestly, I think the idea of putting it together was more scary than actually putting it together. The whole process took two of us about 3 hours from start to finish. The table assembly was the hardest part! 





Once the table is assembled at the motor is mounted on the table, pretty much all thats left to do is drop in the machine and connect the belt from the motor to the machine. I am actually really grateful for the experience of putting it together because I feel like I  have a better understanding of how the machine  and what all these parts are than if I had someone gotten someone to put it all together for me. 

But to break it down, here's the good/the bad and the UGLY of switching from a domestic to an industrial.

The Good:

-This machine is a BEAST. I have tested various materials: cork, vinyl, interfaced cotton and leather and it hasn't yet balked at anything I have been able to fit under the presser foot. 


4 Layer of Glitter Vinyl (not canvas): 


5 layers of 3oz leather:


8 layer of cork:


Some obscenely thick leather (no idea where I even got this stuff):


About 10 layers of interfaced quilting cotton: 





I haven't had it hesitate sewing anything yet. The only time I had an issue was when I attempted to sew some leather and forgot to change the needle out and tried to sew leather with a size 14 needle....it wasn't pretty, the needle revolted and broke in several places.

-Automatic Bobbin winder that fills bobbins as you sew, need I say more?

-Ease of changing the bobbin. I've found it actually easier to change the bobbin out in the juki than my domestics.

-Stitch quality: I do feel like when my tension is set properly for what I am sewing, my stitches are far more balanced.


-Cost for accessories: When stocking up on needles, bobbins and presser feet I was SHOCKED at how much less expensive it was for these items. Needles were less than 2 dollars for a pack of 20 and bobbins were about 4 cents each. Even the presser foot were only a few dollars each. Quite a change from the nearly dollar per needle costs for microtex.

-The speed: well not so much for me, because I slow at a grandma's pace but more confident sewists will appreciate the rate at which this thing moves. The speed goes up to 4,000 stitches per minute (OMG that like 70 per second....who sews that fast). I currently have the motor set to 350 stitches per minute as the top speed.

-Servicing: The way this machine is set up, servicing really isn't something that you do. All the parts are pretty much replaceable and relly not overly difficult to change out. Also, again they are not very expensive. The only servicing you really need to prepare for is to change out the oil on occasion and cleaning up your feed dogs and bobbin area.

-Knee lift: OMG, this has been the best thing ever! I just use my knee to lift the presser foot, allowing me to never have to take my hands off my project. Great for turning corners!. It also lifts so HIGH, fitting those bulky seams under is never an issue.

-Needle Sizes: I can get needle sizes up to 23 for my machine. 23!!!!!! From someone who could only get up to a 14 on my domestic this was an amazing game changer.

-Thread sizes: I always struggled to get my domestic to use topstitching thread or thicker threads, even with using a regular weight on the bottom and a top stitching needle. Now, I have to issues at all, even with heavier thread in the bobbin as well.


The Bad:

-Frequent Adjustments: unlike my domestic, the Juki is a lot more sensitive to changes in materials and bulk. Although it doesn't hesitate to stitch, it does require more frequent adjustments to the tension and presser foot pressure.

-The Tension: This is both good and bad. There isn't a handy dial nubered for you because the tension is SO adjustable. It generally requires a lot of turns to make adjustments in tension. Which is great because you have so much control, but when you find that perfect tension for say, cotton you gotta test that out on a scrap before you start sewing your project. I made the mistake a few times of not adjusting from materials and found that my stitches were loose, requiring me to adjust and resew.

-Threading: I wouldn't say that threading the machine is complicated at all, but it does require several more steps than a quick 4 step process that many of us are used to on domestics. It makes you think twice about the order in which you sew things because you inwardly groan when it's time to change thread colors.

-No Bells & Whistles: Love your automatic thread cutter? Automatic threader? Yeah, this baby is the stripped down version of your domestic with it's fancy features. No thread cutter, threader or needle up/down buttons. It sounds silly, but I didn't realize how much those features sped up the process. There are some industrials that you can get these features on, but those were not an option for many available options.

-This is NOT a compound walking foot machine. And unlike a domestic you can't just get a walking foot attachment for it (not that it's the same as a compound walking foot). I'm used to sewing with the walking foot on. I have to use care when sewing straps and long seams that it isn't getting all out of sorts.

-No markings on the needle plate: Those of us who are so used to this just being the standard, may be a bit dismayed to learn this is NOT the standard on many industrials. You can easily purchase one, but it's not something that you can expect.



The Ugly:

-Thread stays in the bobbin: Often when finishing a seam, when you lift the presser foot the top thread will be in the bobbin casing. At first I thought there was something wrong, but I have been assured that this is normal. It just slows me down because I have to then turn the hand wheel to get the thread back up.

-Lack of versatility: I knew going in that this machine would be pretty much used solely for bag making. This machine is rated for heavy duty sewing. Although there are industrials that are rated for lighterweight materials such as garments, this machine is not one of them. I tried it on uninterfaced cotton and it quickly shredded that material. Industrials are typically meant to do one job only, and do that job well. Don't expect that any industrial will completely replace the versatility of a domestic.

-The handwheel is "locked:: I was completely shocked by how hard it is to turn! A friend explained to me that you have to put a slight amount of presser on the pedal (not enough to get it to sew, but enough to engage the motor), which is kind of tricky to do and takes a bit of getting used to.

-Adjustments: Again, be prepared to make more adjustments than you probably ever have. I have now had to get used to even adjusting my bobbin tension, which most owners of a domestic machine are told to never EVER touch it. Now, it becomes something you may need to do and do often.

-It is HEAVY DUTY: The main foot that came with the machine has a finger guard, why does it have a finger guard you ask? I know more people than I can count that have sewn clear through their finger, I don't think for a second that this machine wouldn't make it clear through my finger. The other feet that you will commonly use (zipper, piping, teflon, etc) will not be equipped with a guard.

-Reversing: There is a bar that you will hold down to reverse on this machine. The bar goes down about 2", if you do NOT hold down the bar all the way, it doesn't fully reverse. I couldn't figure out why I would be stitching along with a stitch length of 5, only to have my reverse stitches look like they had a length of 2. It was because I wasn't holding down the needle all the way.


Are you thinking about getting your first industrial? After having mine and using it consistently for the last two months I have to say I am sold and I wish I had taken the plunge a lot sooner. It's definitely made sewing many things a lot easier. It has been able to sew pretty much anything I can stick under the presser foot. The learning curve was a bit steep but after pushing myself to figure it out (I made myself sew ALL my bags on it, even though it slowed me down at first), I LOVE it and I am getting much quicker.

If you are thinking about it, I would highly recommend talking to a professional dealer and make sure you are looking at the machine that is right for you.




Monday, April 16, 2018

Where to get the best prices on interfacings





Interfacing is one of the most expensive materials that we put into our bags, and it is probably one of the most important. It seems everyone has their preferred place to shop and has their own "stock up price". Today, I'm going to try and work out where the best places to buy the most commonly used interfacings in bag making. As prices do tend to be fluid, the list is just a guideline and prices are subject to change. For ALL products the prices per yard I am giving you are based on 20" wide widths, as that is the standard for the Pellon Products. Also, there are many sellers not listed, but I generally listed the stores with the lowest prices. This post contains affiliate links.


Woven Fusible

Pellon Shapeflex 101


JoAnn Fabrics:

By the yard, Joann has a regular price of 6.99 per yard on shapeflex. This is marginally better if you buy a 10 yard bolt, where the price per yard is 5.29. Joann's sale prices vary extensively and you can find interfacing anywhere from 30-60% off. The lowest I have seen it is when you are able to use a coupon for 60% off, bringing it down to 2.80 a yard at the per yard price or 2.11 by the bolt. This is the same deal as when they allow you to stack a 50% off sale with a 20% off coupon. Consider shipping cost into this if you choose to buy online. LOWEST PRICE 2.11 per yard when you purchase a bolt.

Walmart:

The lowest price I have seen on shapeflex at Walmart is 42.00 for a 15 yard bolt on Walmart.com. This includes free shipping or free store pick up. Although I have seen this price fluctuate quite a bit as well, it tends to generally stay around this price. LOWEST PRICE 2.80 per yard when you buy a 15 yard bolt.

Overstock:

Overstock is another popular option with bag makers. You can purchase a shopping pass for the year for 19.99 which would give you free shipping on all purchases. You can purchase a 10 yard bolt for 26.09 and not including shipping it would be 2.61 a yard.  A 10 yard bolt of 60" wide runs 74.24 per bolt or 2.47 per yard (when adjusted to the comparable 20" wide). LOWEST PRICE 2.47 per yard. 

Amazon:

Oh how I love you Amazon Prime! But you let me down when it comes to my interfacing. There are no Prime options available for Shapeflex and the lowest price offered is 20.49 for a 10 yard bolt. Which doesn't sound so bad until you factor in a minimum of 7.90 shipping, which I will include in this price simce there is no way around it. LOWEST PRICE 2.76 per yard. 



Wovenfuse:

Gotinterfacing.com:

This product has seemingly taken the bag making world by storm. I use it and I personally love it. It gives all the body of Shapeflex and is easier to fuse and typically costs much less. At 45" wide you get 2.25 % more than the 20" Shapeflex. The only downside is the shipping costs. At 7.90 for a Flat Rate, it's not unreasonable but you don't get the perk of free shipping that you can get from other retailers, so I will factor the shipping into the costs. A 7 yard pacakge of 45" wide woven fuse will run you 32.40. Compared to the 20" wide Shapeflex, that's 2.05 a yard. If you are able to purchase in bulk, you can get 37 yards shipped for 141.15 that works out to 1.70 per yard when adjusted to the 20" shapeflex. LOWEST PRICE 1.70 per yard.

Fashion Fuse:

Wawak:

I used this product back before Wovenfuse was available and it's honestly 100% comparable to Shapeflex, except I always found that it was a consistent product (which has been an issue with some Shapeflex I have used). You can purchase it at Wawak in the US, and Cleaner's Supply in Canada. In the US it is 25.00 for a 5 yard bolt of 46" wide Fashion Fuse, you can get free shipping at orders over 99 so I am not including that in this price. That works out to 2.17 a yard. LOWEST PRICE 2.17 a yard


Best buy for Woven Fusible:

The Winner: Wovenfuse at 1.70-2.05 per yard
Runner Up: JoAnn COUPON ONLY price or Fashion Fuse at regular price.



Foams


There are several options to use for foams, I can't tell you which is best, I think everyone has a preference. They are mostly the same product, my favorites are By Annie's Soft and Stable and Bosal In R Form. I personally do not like fusible foams, and I will not be including them here. I will break down the three types I know of and what the price points are. 


Pellon Flex Foam:

JoAnn:

JoAnn has Pellon Flex Foam 77 at regular price for 105.00 for a 10 yard bolt of 20" wide. That's 10.50 per yard....OUCH. Stack coupons, similarly to the Shapeflex deals and you can get this for 4.20 per yard


Overstock:

Overstock has the same 10 yard bolt as JoAnn, but at 58.49 regular price, making it 5.84 per yard

Winner: Joann WITH coupon deal


Bosal in R Form:

Create for Less:

Create for Less has a 1 yard package of 58" wide Bosal sew in for 19.74. With the extra width that's comparable to 2.9 yards of Pellon. Making it the equivalent of 6.81 per yard. You can qualify for free shipping with orders over 50. 

Walmart: 

Walmart has one yard packages of Bosal sew in for 17.77 plus 4.49 shipping (no options for free shipping on this one), making it 7.68 per yard.

Craftmore:

You can grab this same package for 13.79 and get free shipping on orders over 75 dollars. Making this one 4.76 per yard. I am not certain if this is a regular price. 

Amazon:

Bulk purchasers can score a 15 yard bolt of 58" foam for 229.95, which breaks down to 5.23 per yard with free Prime shipping. The only other option for sew in on Amazon is the 18" x 58" width for 9.82 with Prime shipping, making that 6.55 per yardLOWEST PRICE 5.23 per yard.

Winner: Craftmore at 4.76 per yard
Runner up: Amazon at 5.23-6.55 per yard


Soft and Stable:

Amazon:

Amazon has been my go to for this product, you can score a 36" x 58" package for 18.99 with prime, making it 6.54 per yard. Pick up a 72" x 58" package for 34.94 with Prime (I've actually seen this price flucuate between 30 and 36 dollars on this item), making it 6.02 per yard. LOWEST PRICE 6.02 per yard.

Walmart:

Walmart has various sizes of Soft and Stable, but the 72" x 58" package is the same price as Amazon at 34.94. Making it 6.02 per yard

Connecting Threads:

Connecting Threads frequently runs 30% off sales, and I know this is where some bagmakers get theirs and stock up during the sales. You can get a 18" x 58: package for 8.37 during the sales. Making it 5.58 per yard, free shipping on all orders over 50 dollars. 

There are othe retailers that sell this, but these are the lowest that I have found. 


Winner: Connecting Threads during the 30% off sales at 5.58 per yard. 
Runner up: Tie between Amazon and Walmart at 6.02 per yard. 


Best Buy for Foam:
  • Winner: Joann WITH COUPON ONLY at 4.20 per yard for Pellon when you purchase a bolt or Bosal at Craftmore at 4.76 per yard
  • Runner up: Connecting Threads during the 30% off sales at 5.58 per yard for Soft and Stable.
  • Honorable Mention: If you are in need and can't wait for a sale or coupon, your best bet is to hit up Amazon or Walmart at 6.02 a yard for the 2 yard package of Soft and Stable.



Hope this is helpful when trying to figure out where you can get the best value, at what prices to stock up on these! Do you have any other sources I am missing that have better values! Please let me know if I can add some other sellers to this list!

Monday, March 26, 2018

Homemade Bags Versus Handmade Bags





Homemade versus handmade, some might argue that there isn’t a difference, but I think there very much is. Homemade is of course made by hand, but I tend to associate those things with the trinkets that my kids make me (which I love). However, when I make something, I don’t want it to look like I threw it together at mommy and me craft night.


When I make a bag, I don’t want it to look “homemade” but I will gladly tell others that it is handmade by me. There is a difference between those bags that look like they were bought in a store, and those that look like they were hastily sewn together.


We know how pricey sewing can be, and there is nothing worse than hating a bag that you spent so much time and MONEY on. If you want to up your bag game here are the biggest giveaways to homemade bags.





Contrasting thread



Now, I’ve seen some AHmazing bags with contrasting thread. It can make a bag absolutely pop. With that said, it’s something that you have to get 100% right. Any small error in stitching, even one wonky stitch, will stand out like a sore thumb. Back stitching, or even anchoring your pockets can be a big LOOK AT ME. Unless you are absolutely a beast, please just use coordinating thread. It’s so much less stressful and any small errors you make are hardly noticeable. 



Not all of us can be as amazing as Jenny of Sincerely Jen with this GORGEOUS example of contrast stitching done right.





The wrong interfacing

Nothing says homemade like limp, wrinkly bags. Linings that sag or pleats that look like I just tried to squeeze myself into a size 0 pants because I used foam instead of fleece. I test for several designers and I can tell you that the interfacings they recommend aren’t just a random guess. It’s not unusual for it to even change up during the testing process when different combos are found to work better. They tell you what to use because, TRULY, it will get you the best results. So by all means once you have made a pattern and want to alter it, go for it, but understand that it will NOT give you the results that were originally intended for the bag. Sometimes that’s what you want, but always try it first….you’ll probably like it as is!

The wrong hardware


Hardware can make or break a bag. Sure, not all bags even NEED hardware to look fab. If your bag does call for hardware, please use the appropriate size. Straps that are 1” sitting in 1.5” rings are usually like the guy from accounting who has to cinch his belt up to keep his pants from falling down. The same can be said for cheap hardware, cheap hardware often LOOKS cheap.You don't need to spend a fortune, but there is a difference in quality. When you spend so much time on something, you don't want to make it look cheap



Wendy of W.D. Handbags is a master at making her bags looks polished and professional both with and without hardware.





Look how polished even a simple strap can look with the right hardware on this posh strap by ByPiera:



The same can be said for poorly installed hardware. Loose snaps and snaggly rivets aren’t pretty. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for installation, and properly reinforce all hardware. Also, ensure that you protect your fabrics by putting interfacing over the washers on purse feet, snaps and labels.

Hardware should accentuate your bag, not detract from it. Get more hardware tips here.




Not pressing

Pressing your finished bag can take it from blah to ahhhh in less than 10 minutes. No one wants to see your center crease on your final bag. Take the time to press your bag properly and it will thank you. Margareth of Maggie Made Bags did a wonderful post on how to get professional finishing by pressing your bags here.

Photos Courtesy of Sincerely Jen



Not top stitching

Now, as much as the contrast thread can stick out in a bad way, so can not top stitching where it’s called for. Sometimes you just HAVE to skip it, perhaps it’s just too much for your machine. In those cases it’s better to skip it than to have some messy stitching mocking you. But, there is no reason to skip it otherwise. Pockets, zip panels, and pieces want you to stitch them. They will love you for it. When top stitching, you want to increase the length of your stitches, usually no shorter than 3. Bigger is better! Jessica of Twigs and Needles has a beautifully stitched bag that shows how the right top stitching can make your bag look high end.




Wonky zippers


Zippers are a pain in the butt at times. We’ve all struggled with the learning curves of zippers. We love them and we hate them. I still get giddy over a cooperative zip pocket. The only way to sew zippers is to sew them like you love them. Tell yourself you do and show them who is boss. I’ve found that I am incapable of sewing zippers with pins. It just doesn’t mix for me. Find what works for you and try different methods of installing them. Whether it be double sided tape, clips or glue. I know some very accomplished bag makers who all use different methods. Try a few and see what you like. Like anything else, don’t be afraid to clip your zipper tape around curves. Try different feet, I much prefer my adjustable zipper foot to sew in zip pockets, but I know some people who do just great with their regular presser foot
.

Photos Courtesy of Sincerely Jen



Not cutting your seam allowances

Once you have finished sewing anything together, get in the habit of trimming your seam allowance. The thirty seconds to trim it will pay off. It’s almost impossible to get a crisply pressed slip pocket or finished bag with a bunch of fabric wadded in your seam allowances. If you are lazy like me, use pinking shears on curves if you must. But please, trim them!


Photo Courtesy of Marcie Girl Designs


Loose threads

Ever notice a bunch of threads sticking out on a Coach bag? Nope. Trim your threads as you go. Cut off those long tails so they don’t get trapped in other seams and stick out of your bag. Once you are done, always do a final once over to get any of those orphan threads that always find a way to sneak out. Get a pair of thread trimmers, embroidery scisors, snips or anything that you will use!



Not fixing small errors



Now, I don’t mean that every bag is perfect. I am yet to sew a perfect bag. In fact I can point out at least three (or 10) errors in every bag I make. What I mean is, those small errors you make when you are sewing that you don’t stop to fix. Crooked pockets, uneven zip panels, wonky connectors. Small things can quickly add up to big things. If you aren’t happy with your pocket placement when you sew it on your panel, you aren’t going to like it more when your whole bag is complete. If you think “should I fix it”, you probably should. I’ve never regretting going back and redoing a step but I’ve always regretting when I haven’t. 


This pocket? It was the world's most uncooperative pocket. It took me 4 times of stitching and unstitching to get it straight. I had initially thought about leaving it, as it was only off a little bit, but I knew that it would stick out and look probably more crooked than it was due to the print. I'm so glad that I redid it, all 4 times. The fix maybe took 10 minutes total.






Not finishing your bag

I hate hand sewing. Hate it. However, sometimes I just gotta do it. I’m not fortunate enough to have perfected the very ends of drop in linings. I manage to make it to the very last couple inches and things just don’t go my way. I’ve embraced it, I just hand stitch the last couple inches and I don’t hate drop in linings anymore. I know that it looks good inside and not just outside. I’ve seen some bags that they just leave these holes at the ends of those panels. It takes 15 minutes to finish it and it looks so much nicer.




Not considering fabric placement

I am always in awe of people like Michelle from Baraboobo who can rock fussy cutting and make all their bags look seamless with large or specific prints. I am NOT one of those people. But, even if we can’t fussy cut like that, you can try and consider where the fabric repeat is placed on the bag. If you are using a fabric with an obvious focal point, try and center that on your bag panel. Being off by a half inch or so won't be as obvious as being off by 3 inches
.







Following random advice on the internet



I totally get the irony here. But seriously, there is so much information out there and it can be hard to know what is good and what isn’t. I’ve seen everything from using sharpies, to change thread colors to using hot glue guns for bindings. If you don’t know how something could reasonably work, please don’t trust it as sound advice if you don’t know the source. Designers put a LOT of time, energy,  and effort into developing their patterns. They don’t recommend something because they think it might work, they recommend it because they know it will. At the end of the day they want you to be happy with the bag you make. People always have advice, but as in all other areas, it's important to remember it's not all GOOD advice, even if given with the best of intentions. 


I hope this doesn’t read as telling you to never experiment or deviate from a pattern or idea. I don’t mean that at all, but it’s always better to test something out before you start going all Frankenstein. The best way to learn is by trying new things, but please be careful where you get your information and consider the logic behind ideas and techniques. What else have you learned along the way? What tips worked for you and what didn't? I feel like I learn something new with almost every new bag I make. I'd love to hear your favorites and what you learned along the way!








Monday, February 19, 2018

Bag Buzz February Edition




Hello Bagineers! It's been a while since I have had a Bag Buzz for you, now that I have fully gotten back up to speed after the holidays, it's time to fill you in on what's going on in the Bag Making world! Grab a cup of coffee and a snack, this is a long one!
This post contains Affiliate Links.


New Releases:
The Waterlily Waxed Canvas Tote by Blue Calla Patterns:
The Waterlily Waxed Canvas Tote - PDF Sewing pattern

The Cottonwood Boho Bag by GML Designs

The Summertime Sling by Andrie Designs
The Maggie Bag by iThinkSew
The Factotum and Mini Factotum by Chris W Designs
The Atlas Rucksack by Swoon Patterns
The Easy Stand up Zipper Tote by Hungry Hippie Sews:

The Joy Mini Wallet:



The Ruby Handbag by Bagstock Sewing Patterns:
The Moxie Crossbody Bag by Betz White:
The Paris Purse by Pink Pony Designs:
The Ruth Clutch Wallet by Designz Sewing Patterns:



The Sunny Side up Clutch by Little Moo Designs:
1
Tutorials:
The Jade by Moments Designs:

The Yoga Bag Pattern by Sew Hungry Hippie:

Easy Cork or Leather Notebook Cover by Sew Sweetness:
FREE Video: Sew Sweetness Easy Cork or Leather Notebook Cover
Working with Waxed Canvas by Blue Calla Patterns:
Cotton duck canvas
Adding a Fabric End to your zipper by Blue Calla Patterns:
Tips for Better Bag Making by Andrie Designs: 
Tips for Better Bag Making - Andrie Designs
Happy Okapi has done a fab tutorial on how to use up your cork/vinyl scraps to make coasters, add some bling for a high end look:
Easy Cork Coasters Tutorial
Other News:
The Bag of the Month Club is in full swing with 2 patterns released already! You can still join up and get the previous pattern releases for this year, as well as the remaining patterns released each month through June. 
Join the Bag of the Month club
Sew Sweetness is starting a monthly Cork Club, which is perfect if you have been curious about working with cork! Each month you get 10  9"x7" pieces of cork along with a video on how to create a project using those pieces of cork. 
There are still a couple spots left for the June Bag Retreat by Mrs. H! It's a beautiful, relaxing sewing retreat in the beautiful Wales Countryside:

In case you haven't heard, Free Spirit Fabrics will be stopping fabric production permanently. This means that some of your favorite prints may no longer be available very soon. This includes designers such as Tula Pink, Joel Dewberry, Anna Maria Horner, Amy Butler among others. This may the time to snatch up any prints you have been wanting to stock up on before they are gone forever. We will all be watching to see which manufacturers these designers move to, but grab your favorites while you can!
Sales:
Connecting Threads has up to 35% off all cutting tools, it's a great time to stock up on rotatry cutter blades, thread snips and seam rippers:
Rotary Blade Refills
Have you heard about Craftsy Unlimited? For 14.99 a month or 120 a year (which inlcudes free US shipping on supplies on Craftsy, as Four $25 coupons you can use on supplies throughout the year). You can get a 7 day free trial now! This is a great chance to watch some bagmaking courses you've been wanting to check out!
Craftsy Unlimited FREE 7 day trial at Craftsy.com