Get it Together Duffel Pattern

I released my second pattern, the Get it Together Duffel recently and I'm excited (and late) to share the details about this fun travel bag and all the amazing versions my testers whipped up!! You can grab this pattern now on Craftsy and Etsy for immediate download. 

This pattern comes in Two sizes: Large and Small. Although, the large could be called jumbo. The large sizes in at 19" L x 14" H x 9" D and was sized to be compliant with most carry on size restrictions. It's quite a large bag, and as you will see, also works perfectly for a machine size travel bags for many domestic machines. The small is a more modestly sized traveler at: 16" L x 10" H x 9"D, perfect for an overnight bag, a quick weekender or even as a gym bag. 

Both sizes have the same great features. The top is a double zippered opening, which is unique and allows for ease of packing and unpacking, as well as easily loading in your machine for retreats. The exterior has four large slip pockets, great for stashing things within easy reach while on the go. The inside has both a large zippered pocket and a divided slip pocket to help keep you organized and stash your valuables. This bag was designed to be used with webbing, which is PERFECT for those of you, who like me, hate sewing straps. However, directions are given to use fabric as well for the handles and straps. This is a softly structured bag, meaning it will stand up on it's own, but can easily be crammed into an overstuffed trunk. 

The design of this bag works well for a unisex bag, which means it's a great project for the boys in our lives too! The pattern includes full color, step by step illustrated instructions to make both sizes. 

Materials List

For Both Sizes

• 1 Yard (1 M) Exterior Fabric
•  0.5 Yard (0.5 M) Exterior Contrast
•  1.5 Yards (1.5 M) Lining Fabric
•  5.25 Yards (5 M) 1.5” (38mm) wide webbing (Please note this pattern is written using webbing. If you would like to use fabric or vinyl, you will need an additional 7/8 yard of fabric)
• 6 Yards (5.75 M) 20” wide fusible woven interfacing (Pellon Shapflex 101, Wovenfuse, or equiva­lent)
• 2 yards (2 M) 20” wide Foam Stabilizer (By Annie’s Soft and Stable, Pellon Flex Foam, Bosal In R Form, or equivalent. Fusible foam is not recommended)
• 8” x 18.5” (20.25cm x 46.25cm) Fusible Firm Stabilizer such as Peltex 71
• (2) 18” #5 Long Pull Handbag Zippers (Important! You must use long pulls in order for the hardware to fit properly through the zippers)
• (1) 10” #3 Zipper
• (2) 1.5” (38 mm) Triangle Rings or D Rings
• (2) 1.5” (38mm) Swivel Clips
• (2) 0.5” (12mm) Swivel Clips
• (1) 1.5” (38mm) Adjustable Slide
•   3 Yards (3 M) of 1.5” (38mm) wide Bias Binding ***If you are choosing to make your own binding you will need an additional 0.5 Yard (0.5 M) of Fabric to do this.***
•     Double Sided Tape
•     Fabric Marking Pen
•     Thread
•     Wonder Clips, Binding Clips or Pins
•                 *Optional: Rivets or Chicago Screws to secure Strap Connectors and Handles

Now, to share the amazing versions my testers created! They are all amazing and I can't thank them all enough for testing this for me!

Meg of Hudson Valley Handbags made this incredible version with leather and Marimekko fabrics, she added piping to the side panels and I adore this version, it looks so high end! 

My lovely friend Amy made this version in some fun AH comic prints and this knock-your-socks-off pink crocodile vinyl from SewHungryHippie. 

Tara from UhOh Creations made this Super Hero version in the large size and has already been claimed and sleep over tested!

How about this sweet floral version by Just an E? Abbe has even made me love florals with this one!

Line Vienneau made this super sweet unicorn version for a little girl and it's adorable! 

I always love seeing how Wendy of W.D Handbags interprets the patterns she uses, and this one was no different! She made this super cute girly version in gingham and lace!

Michelle of Barabooboo made this amazing large version and check out how perfect the size is for her Juki! 

Jenny of Sincerely Jen Patterns made this GORGEOUS version in C + S with this amazing iridescent clear vinyl from Sew Hungry Hippie! Jenny also just made a matching Conseula Clutch, and this is one awesome travel set! 

Cheryl of Cheryl's Quilts and Crafts made this fabulous super hero version! I love the embroidery on that front pocket, it's so perfect for showcasing a fun embroidery design!

And last, but certainly NOT least, this INCREDIBLE all leather version by Laurie Dasso! She made some modifications to the small to use as a pet carrier and a convertible back pack, Isn't it amazing??

I am so thankful to all the people that have made the release of this pattern possible! Without their help and support this wouldn't be happening. I'd love it if you'd join the patterns group on Facebook and share so we can see your makes!

Homemade Bags Versus Handmade Bags

Homemade versus handmade, some might argue that there isn’t a difference, but I think there very much is. Homemade is of course made by hand, but I tend to associate those things with the trinkets that my kids make me (which I love). However, when I make something, I don’t want it to look like I threw it together at mommy and me craft night.


When I make a bag, I don’t want it to look “homemade” but I will gladly tell others that it is handmade by me. There is a difference between those bags that look like they were bought in a store, and those that look like they were hastily sewn together.


We know how pricey sewing can be, and there is nothing worse than hating a bag that you spent so much time and MONEY on. If you want to up your bag game here are the biggest giveaways to homemade bags.

Contrasting thread

Now, I’ve seen some AHmazing bags with contrasting thread. It can make a bag absolutely pop. With that said, it’s something that you have to get 100% right. Any small error in stitching, even one wonky stitch, will stand out like a sore thumb. Back stitching, or even anchoring your pockets can be a big LOOK AT ME. Unless you are absolutely a beast, please just use coordinating thread. It’s so much less stressful and any small errors you make are hardly noticeable. 

Not all of us can be as amazing as Jenny of Sincerely Jen with this GORGEOUS example of contrast stitching done right.

The wrong interfacing

Nothing says homemade like limp, wrinkly bags. Linings that sag or pleats that look like I just tried to squeeze myself into a size 0 pants because I used foam instead of fleece. I test for several designers and I can tell you that the interfacings they recommend aren’t just a random guess. It’s not unusual for it to even change up during the testing process when different combos are found to work better. They tell you what to use because, TRULY, it will get you the best results. So by all means once you have made a pattern and want to alter it, go for it, but understand that it will NOT give you the results that were originally intended for the bag. Sometimes that’s what you want, but always try it first….you’ll probably like it as is!

The wrong hardware

Hardware can make or break a bag. Sure, not all bags even NEED hardware to look fab. If your bag does call for hardware, please use the appropriate size. Straps that are 1” sitting in 1.5” rings are usually like the guy from accounting who has to cinch his belt up to keep his pants from falling down. The same can be said for cheap hardware, cheap hardware often LOOKS cheap.You don't need to spend a fortune, but there is a difference in quality. When you spend so much time on something, you don't want to make it look cheap

Wendy of W.D. Handbags is a master at making her bags looks polished and professional both with and without hardware.

Look how polished even a simple strap can look with the right hardware on this posh strap by ByPiera:

The same can be said for poorly installed hardware. Loose snaps and snaggly rivets aren’t pretty. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for installation, and properly reinforce all hardware. Also, ensure that you protect your fabrics by putting interfacing over the washers on purse feet, snaps and labels.

Hardware should accentuate your bag, not detract from it. Get more hardware tips here.

Not pressing

Pressing your finished bag can take it from blah to ahhhh in less than 10 minutes. No one wants to see your center crease on your final bag. Take the time to press your bag properly and it will thank you. Margareth of Maggie Made Bags did a wonderful post on how to get professional finishing by pressing your bags here.

Photos Courtesy of Sincerely Jen

Not top stitching

Now, as much as the contrast thread can stick out in a bad way, so can not top stitching where it’s called for. Sometimes you just HAVE to skip it, perhaps it’s just too much for your machine. In those cases it’s better to skip it than to have some messy stitching mocking you. But, there is no reason to skip it otherwise. Pockets, zip panels, and pieces want you to stitch them. They will love you for it. When top stitching, you want to increase the length of your stitches, usually no shorter than 3. Bigger is better! Jessica of Twigs and Needles has a beautifully stitched bag that shows how the right top stitching can make your bag look high end.

Wonky zippers

Zippers are a pain in the butt at times. We’ve all struggled with the learning curves of zippers. We love them and we hate them. I still get giddy over a cooperative zip pocket. The only way to sew zippers is to sew them like you love them. Tell yourself you do and show them who is boss. I’ve found that I am incapable of sewing zippers with pins. It just doesn’t mix for me. Find what works for you and try different methods of installing them. Whether it be double sided tape, clips or glue. I know some very accomplished bag makers who all use different methods. Try a few and see what you like. Like anything else, don’t be afraid to clip your zipper tape around curves. Try different feet, I much prefer my adjustable zipper foot to sew in zip pockets, but I know some people who do just great with their regular presser foot.

Photos Courtesy of Sincerely Jen

Not cutting your seam allowances

Once you have finished sewing anything together, get in the habit of trimming your seam allowance. The thirty seconds to trim it will pay off. It’s almost impossible to get a crisply pressed slip pocket or finished bag with a bunch of fabric wadded in your seam allowances. If you are lazy like me, use pinking shears on curves if you must. But please, trim them!

Photo Courtesy of Marcie Girl Designs

Loose threads

Ever notice a bunch of threads sticking out on a Coach bag? Nope. Trim your threads as you go. Cut off those long tails so they don’t get trapped in other seams and stick out of your bag. Once you are done, always do a final once over to get any of those orphan threads that always find a way to sneak out. Get a pair of thread trimmers, embroidery scisors, snips or anything that you will use!

Not fixing small errors

Now, I don’t mean that every bag is perfect. I am yet to sew a perfect bag. In fact I can point out at least three (or 10) errors in every bag I make. What I mean is, those small errors you make when you are sewing that you don’t stop to fix. Crooked pockets, uneven zip panels, wonky connectors. Small things can quickly add up to big things. If you aren’t happy with your pocket placement when you sew it on your panel, you aren’t going to like it more when your whole bag is complete. If you think “should I fix it”, you probably should. I’ve never regretting going back and redoing a step but I’ve always regretting when I haven’t. 

This pocket? It was the world's most uncooperative pocket. It took me 4 times of stitching and unstitching to get it straight. I had initially thought about leaving it, as it was only off a little bit, but I knew that it would stick out and look probably more crooked than it was due to the print. I'm so glad that I redid it, all 4 times. The fix maybe took 10 minutes total.

Not finishing your bag

I hate hand sewing. Hate it. However, sometimes I just gotta do it. I’m not fortunate enough to have perfected the very ends of drop in linings. I manage to make it to the very last couple inches and things just don’t go my way. I’ve embraced it, I just hand stitch the last couple inches and I don’t hate drop in linings anymore. I know that it looks good inside and not just outside. I’ve seen some bags that they just leave these holes at the ends of those panels. It takes 15 minutes to finish it and it looks so much nicer.

Not considering fabric placement

I am always in awe of people like Michelle from Baraboobo who can rock fussy cutting and make all their bags look seamless with large or specific prints. I am NOT one of those people. But, even if we can’t fussy cut like that, you can try and consider where the fabric repeat is placed on the bag. If you are using a fabric with an obvious focal point, try and center that on your bag panel. Being off by a half inch or so won't be as obvious as being off by 3 inches.

Following random advice on the internet

I totally get the irony here. But seriously, there is so much information out there and it can be hard to know what is good and what isn’t. I’ve seen everything from using sharpies, to change thread colors to using hot glue guns for bindings. If you don’t know how something could reasonably work, please don’t trust it as sound advice if you don’t know the source. Designers put a LOT of time, energy,  and effort into developing their patterns. They don’t recommend something because they think it might work, they recommend it because they know it will. At the end of the day they want you to be happy with the bag you make. People always have advice, but as in all other areas, it's important to remember it's not all GOOD advice, even if given with the best of intentions. 

I hope this doesn’t read as telling you to never experiment or deviate from a pattern or idea. I don’t mean that at all, but it’s always better to test something out before you start going all Frankenstein. The best way to learn is by trying new things, but please be careful where you get your information and consider the logic behind ideas and techniques. What else have you learned along the way? What tips worked for you and what didn't? I feel like I learn something new with almost every new bag I make. I'd love to hear your favorites and what you learned along the way!

Waterlily Tote Waxed Canvas Tote

Waxed canvas has been on my "want to try" list for a long while, I absolutely love the look of waxed canvas and I'm intriqued by the water resistance and durability it offers. It's sat on this list for an embarassingly long amount of time until Blue Calla released the Waterlily Waxed Canvas Tote. Although the Waterlily can be made in any material, it's the perfect pattern to use waxed canvas, so when put out this pattern as a test pattern, this was my chance to finally do it.

If you look up waxing canvas there are about one million tutorials and recipes, but they all boil down to 2 essential ingredients and some optional ingredients: bees wax and parafin. Some recipes call for oils such as boiled linseed oil and turpentine, so really it's all about your preferences. I found that just the parafin and beeswax alone made a nice wax to work and yielded good results.


Also, there are two ways to wax your canvas,  before you sew your bag and after. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. You can find a great tutorial by Blue Calla Patterns on how to wax your canvas before you sew here.

Your basic tools are something to heat the wax to melt and something heat the wax once it's applied to the canvas to get it to absorb into the fabric itself. If you are doing it before you sew, you can use ann iron, but if you wait to apply it til yourbag is finished you will need a heat gun or blow dryer. I purchased all my supplies on amazon.

I opted to get a cheap crockpot on Amazon to keep for wax only (I don't even want to imagine cleaning the wax out of it to use for cooking later). 

I used about 1/3 beeswax and 2/3 parafin as Blue Calla's tutorial suggests. When I added the wax to the crock pot, I waited, and I waited and I waited for it to melt. So, word of advice start heating up the wax long before you are going to need it. 

I might have cheated and used the heat gun to speed up the melting process after losing patience. But, I can't confirm or deny that. 

Since I waited to wax my tote until after I was done sewing, I had to use a little care when applying the wax to make sure it only waxed the areas that I wanted it to. It was surprisingly easier to control that I had thought it would be. The wax paints on and dries quickly, leaving a layer of wax on the top of the fabric that makes you wonder if you are doing this right. If you think this too, then you are doing it right. 

There is really no exact science to how to apply the wax, I did small sections, but I imagine you could just as same do the whole bag. Once your applied wax has tried, take your heat gun to heat the wax you applied to the bag and then watch as MAGIC happens. Where the heat gun is applied, the wax will magically absorb into the canvas and take on a different look. 

The great thing is, this is sooo forgiving, you can always add more wax to areas that look sparse or reheat the wax to work out any areas that seem to be heavier coated with wax.

The finish look is that of a rugged, distressed bag. You'll notice in other waxed canvas bags the wax lightens in areas it has been folded. If you like this distressed look, crinkle up your bag. If you don't like this look, then just apply a bit more heat and the creases and lightening will fade until the bag is crinkled up again. Magic!

I didn't take any good before and after photos like I should have, but you can see in the photo above that the canvas that is waxed on the bag is darker than the unwaxed fabric I used for the strap. 

Here's a terrible photo of the finished bag before waxing: 

As for the Waterlily, I adore this pattern, and it isn't neccessary to use waxed canvas. It's a relatively easy sew, with the most complicated part keeping all the pieces sorted out with all the rectangles that you cut. I really like that the pattern includes a labeled photo as to which piece goes where, so you can plan out your fabric placement easily when cutting. I sometimes have a hard time visualizing where pieces go duing the cutting process, so this was a huge help for me.

It has a top recessed zipper, a zippered front pocket and a back divided slip pocket. Inside there are even more pockets! This bag came together so quickly, and I love the look of the rolled handles. This is definitely a great confident beginner bag as no steps are exceptionally challenging.

If you have been wanting to try waxing canvas, get on it! It's such a forgiving and satisfying project. And for the cost of what you would pay for 2 yards of waxed canvas you can get almost all the supplies you need to make it yourself.

Have you tried waxing canvas or working with waxed canvas yet? I'd love to hear your thoughts!