IITBS--Reece of Happy Okapi Tools & Notions for Bag Making

Today's post is brought to you by Reece of Happy Okapi. Reece always is sewing up the most incredible projects and gorgeous bags. Follow her on Instagram if you are feeling a need for some inspiration and/or bag love!

I love seeing all the amazing bags she creates, and how perfect they all are. Check out this adorable Maker's Tote she just posted:

And this Tortoise Bag she made as a tester....just stunning!

The Harriet Expandable Tote:

Her stunning version of the Sandra Saddle Bag:

In addition to all the bag yumminess, Reece has an amazing blog filled with fun sew alongs, pattern reviews and tutorials. Go check her out on Facebook too!

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There are so many tools and notions in the sewing world, it can be hard to navigate them all. When I first started sewing, about 5 years ago, I didn’t have any fancy tools, just one of those inexpensive kits you get from craft stores. You know the ones, they usually come in a clear vinyl bag with a few hand needles, some shears, some pins, a measuring tape and gauge, they’re usually a marginal step above a hotel room sewing kit. I still use that measuring tape occasionally and never bothered upgrading the measuring gauge. Over time, I got frustrated not having the right tools, so I slowly built up my tool stash to what I have today.  I don’t pretend to be an expert on them all, but I’d love to share my list of favorites and essentials with you.

Basics: these are the basic tools that I use with practically every project and likely wouldn’t start a project unless I had these on hand.

Quilting rulers, rotary cutter and cutting mat.

With this combination, you can quickly and accurately cut large pieces of fabric and interfacing.

My advice is to buy yourself the largest cutting mat you can afford and have space for. You can often find them on sale or use those 50% off one item coupons for a cutting mat, making it really reasonable.

For the rotary cutter, it really depends on what type of fabric you’re using and the size of your pieces you’re cutting. I use a lot of thicker stabilizers and only use my rotary cutter to cut straight lines, so a larger cutter (60mm blade) works well for me. If you want to be cutting smaller pieces or going around curves more, a smaller blade (18-27mm) would work for that. If you’re just starting out and just want to purchase one, you can try the 45mm blade for the best of both worlds.

The acrylic quilting rulers are the straight edge you cut along, and also a way to measure your cuts accurately. When I started out, I only had one ruler: 6” x 24” and it worked quite well. When I was able to invest a bit more, I purchased a 6.5” square and a 12.5” square and they both made it a bit easier for smaller and larger cuts. In hindsight, I wish I had purchased a ruler package for better value. There’s also this kit that would be great for people starting out.

Scissors

I use the rotary cutter for all my straight cuts, but for curved pattern pieces, I like to use fabric scissors. When I first started out, I bought myself a decent pair of Fiskars fabric shears, but recently I bought some gorgeous 8” Tula Pink Fabric Shears and I noticed a difference right away in quality, I love them! I also have cheap scissors I use for non-woven interfacing/stabilizers and cutting out paper patterns. I’ve used several small snips for threads and I’m really happy with my small gingher embroidery scissors. So in case you’ve lost count, that’s three pairs of scissors I recommend: good quality fabric shears, cheap shears for paper and interfacing, and small scissors for threads.

Wonder Clips

I bought a set of Wonder Clips when I first started bag-making and I never looked back. I find they work so well with layers and you don’t have to worry about pin holes on vinyl/leather. I do have pins but I rarely use them, because I prefer not to jab myself with pointy objects if I can avoid it. I’ve heard that some people have bought cheaper clips and they end up breaking, so I recommend saving yourself the headache and just going with the better quality clips.

Seam Ripper

I know, I know, we don’t want to have to rip out those seams, but sometimes, we just have to face the music, and we may as well have the right tool for the job. I really like the Dritz Seam-Fix Seam Ripper because it has a rubber head that helps remove all the little threads and then close up the teeny holes from the erroneous stitching. My seam ripper also does double duty for making holes to insert magnetic snaps and bag locks.

Nice To Have: I use these often, and they make projects go smoothly

Markers

There are so many different marking tools out there and I think at the end of the day it really just comes down to personal preference. I rotate between a few, depending on the type of fabric I’m marking and what process of the bag I’m at. For basic outlining of pattern pieces, I just grab whatever I have in a colour that’s going to show up, since my outline won’t be seen on my finished product. For marking placement, of an overlay or pocket for example, I use either Fons and Porter Mechanical Fabric Pencil, or Chaco Liners.

Wonder Tape

I almost counted this one as essential, because I use it for every single zipper. I buy the ¼” and it fits perfectly for zipper installs. I also use it when doing some finicky applique or reverse applique. This tape is double-sided and repositionable, so you can set your project up perfectly before you sew it. Unlike some tapes, this one can be sewn through and won’t gum up the needle.

Glue

I use Beacon’s Fabri-tac from time to time. I use it to position handle connectors before I sew them in place, and I also use it as additional security when installing hardware. There are other brands, like E6000, which some people swear by. Fabri-tac was easy for me to find locally and I was happy with it, so I haven’t tried many others.

Fray check

This product can be a life saver if you accidentally nick your nearly finished product. Just dab it on and let it dry and it will prevent your woven fabrics from fraying. It’s a good idea to seal up the slots that get cut during some hardware installation as well.

Point turner/Turning tool

Something like this Point 2 Point Turner from Clover is really handy to have. I use the larger edge to help flatten down vinyl handles, and roll out curved seams. The pointy end helps when turning and making nice sharp corners. You can find many similar tools, such as a bamboo turner or some hera markers. If you’re really in a bind, a wooden chopstick helps too.

Lint Roller

Probably not what you expected to see here, right? Well, I use mine all the time. I find after snipping threads or tiny scraps sticking to my bags, a good roll of the lint roller takes care of all that. I also find it to be the best way to clean up the aftermath of a large seam ripping.

Tablet/Laptop

The vast majority of the projects I sew are from PDF patterns. I only print out the pattern pieces and follow the instructions on my iPad. I love being able to save paper and it helps me avoid clutter from too many patterns (I have lots!). I also like being able to zoom in on diagrams or images if I’m stuck on a particular step.

Extras: these aren’t essential, but I find they make the process much more enjoyable, they’re even fun to use!

Stiletto

I first found out about this tool watching a Craftsy class. It’s used to help get really close to the needle and help guide fabric without getting your fingers sewn. I mean, that’s not the official description, but that’s what they really want to say. I found this 4-in-1 tool and I really love the flat end and now often use it in when I’m finger pressing.

Thread Cutterz Ring

I tried this ring when it first came out and I really enjoy using it. My machine doesn’t have a thread cutter, so this ring keeps me from fumbling around for my small snips while I’m at the machine.

Wishlist: my personal wishlist of tools I’d like but can live without, for now.

Steam Press

I’d love a steam press. For now I just use a basic iron, and it does the trick, but when I’m doing large amounts of fusing, I daydream of having a steam press to cut down on the time spent.

Duck-Bill Scissors

I also learned about these in a Craftsy class, and that they’re helpful for trimming away only specific fabrics in a seam allowance, for example, trimming the foam, but leaving the fabric.

That’s my list! Did I pick your favorite? Do you have a tool you absolutely must use with every bag that isn’t on my list? Let us know!

IITBS-- Amber of Roarhaus Bag Hardware Explained

Today's guest post is by Amber of Roarhaus. Amber cranks out absolutely stunning handbags, and I am always awed by what she makes AND how quickly she can make them! If you follow Amber on Instagram you know what I mean, it's like every day she is sharing another amazing creation.

So, So good! She is amazing! I'm so honored that she will be sharing some of her wisdom with us today and talking about hardware. Thank again Amber!

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Hello and welcome to my crazy world of bag creation! Let’s talking about bag hardware, shall we?!

Bag hardware! What a huge category! I could spend all week just talking about it, but instead I will get down to the basics:

Rivets:

There’s something about rivets that simultaneously takes a bag from homemade to handmade – from looks pretty to lookin’ fabulous! So many people are nervous to try these awesome tools of the trade and you really shouldn’t be! A little practice and you will be well on your way to mastering this “riveting” look. Haha I crack myself up! :D

Rivets come in various sizes: the diameter of the rivet head and the length of the shaft. You will want to pay attention to both of these when purchasing. When choosing a rivet for a project, you will want a shaft that is just long enough to go past the material it will be holding. Anything longer and you risk the rivet bending while installing and it’s no fun removing a bent rivet – take it from me!

They will also come in two different types: double cap ends or regular flat backed rivets.

I prefer to buy only double capped ends. What does double capped end mean? It means that the pretty rounded face of the rivet is on the front and back of the rivet when placed, meaning you can install it anywhere and it will look great! No ugly flat backing to try and hide!

I prefer to use a press when installing my rivets, but a good old hammer and rivet install tools will do the work just as well!

Also, I highly recommend a god leather lunch for all your hold punching needs! I’m not a fan of table top hole punches, although they are a great place to start and I will admit to pulling mine out in hard to reach areas!  I am an equestrian by profession so I know a thing of two about a good hole punch!  If you want to know my secret, this is the one I use:  Sprenger Leather Hole Punch <<use link http://amzn.to/2aLGGD2 if that is OK?>> -  it’s an investment that will pay over and over again because it’s, wait for it……………..SPRING LOADED! Amazing little piece of equipment right there!

Magnetic Snaps:

A staple in your hardware tool bag! These little beauties are perfect for beginners and advanced bag makers alike!

A few key notes about magnetic snaps – I prefer the “thin/slim” design ones. The reduce bulk and are just as strong as the thicker counterpart you find in most box stores. You might have to order them online but once you use them you won’t go back!

When installing magnetic snaps, I am always making sure my fabric is interfaced with ATLEAST a woven fusible like Pellon SF101 to prevent tears or rips – and if this has ever happened to you, you feel my pain!

Next, after marking and cutting my slits for my prongs (I use an exacto knife like this one: <<Link “http://amzn.to/2aoDsT9
“>> to slice my slits) I use a no-fray gel to make sure the slits don’t get frayed or slit further.

Then, before I close the prongs, I insert a tiny piece of thicker material (I use scraps of Pellon 71F Peltex) placed underneath the top closure. This gives the snap some extra strength and helps make it taunt against the fabric.

Finally, close my prongs pressed towards each other NOT away. Away from each other leads to the snap pulling out over time. Finally, a good smack with a hammer to set it all nice and tight! Voila! Magnetic snap!

A side note: there are also hidden magnetic snaps as well! These are fun to incorporate, but that’s another topic entirely! Lol

All the Rings! D-Rings, O-Rings and Rectangle Rings Oh my!

There are so many options of bag hardware nowadays! You can use round rings, oval rings, d shaped rings and rectangle rings plus so many more!

This is some of the most used hardware you will see. Used for straps, attachments and more, these rings bring life and beauty to you bags!

To start with, you want to use good quality heavy rings. Also, you want them to be welded shut all around, no open gaps. Gaps in hardware will lead to bending and breaking and heartbreak!

Choose what to use is personal option and based on bag style Mix it up! Use o-rings on a bag normally you would use rectangle rings on! Go wild! It will give your bags a sense of your personality and style and that’s the whole point, right?!

Swivel Hooks & Sliders:

The bread and butter of cross body straps and removable carry straps! These little beauties are pretty and functional all in one!

Swivel Hooks are awesome for removable cross body straps, wristlet straps and even for closures! They come in all kinds of shapes and sizes! From tiny little lobster claws to large and in charge heavy duty.

Make sure your swivel hooks are made from a quality and sturdy material. No cheap swivel hooks please! They don’t hold up (sometimes barely past installation) and break easily. These hooks usually bear a lot of weight so a nice quality is important.

Sliders are a great way to add adjustability to your straps! It takes some getting used to threading them properly, but once you get the hang of it, it’s a piece of cake! They come in several varieties and sizes. I prefer the solid shaped ones rather than the ones with a moveable center bar, but that’s just my preference! :D

Purse Feet:

I use purse feet every not and again. These are beautiful professional touches that can really elevated a bag to the next level. They are also great for keeping the bottom of your bag clean!

Slider Buckles:

Adding buckles to a bag’s exterior is another way to show some of your unique personality as well as function. They come in several different sizes and shapes. Again, quality of over quantity always!

Twist Locks:

– photo credit to sara Lawson @sewsweetness >>

These fun locks can be a pain to install but always come out looking 5 star! They are unique in that the user must twist the top knob in order to release the locked panels from each other. Great for when you need extra security. They come in several different shapes and sizes; all that can complete a bag or wallet.

Take your time when installing these locks and maybe even practice cutting and placing the lock on scrap fabric before tackling the main project. Go slow, be thoughtful and you will be successful!

Snap Buckles:

Buckles are a fun way to close a bag that needs to be secure. You can find them in colorful colors or simple stainless. They are easy to attach, very similar to attaching a swivel hook.

Grommets:

Grommets can add some fun quirk to any bag! Use them as ways to connect your straps or simply as decoration. Either way you can’t go wrong!

Practice on scrap fabric until you get the hang of setting the grommets. You can buy attachments for your rivet press that will install grommets, or you can go the old fashion stress relieving way and grab a hammer and start pounding! :D

Extras:

Brand Tags, bling and more! Studs, gems, embroidery, corners and pins! The sky’s the limit when creating your master piece!  Most of these items will be installed very easily or similar to a rivet or magnetic snap!

Zipper ends, hand tags, strap holders and more! There are so many options in today’s market to customize and “bling” out your bag!

I hope you enjoyed this intro to bag hardware and learned some tips & tricks as well! For inspiration, tips and tricks, follow me on my blog at www.studioarblog.com or on InstaGram at @monpetitebiscuit and @roarhaus – happy bag makin’!